All in a Day at the Park

When summer comes to Paris, those who are still cooped up in the city flock to the nearest park in search of a quiet patch of shade. And soon the capital's espaces verts become dotted with picnickers and sunbathers, making them a fountain of free sociological information--and entertainment.
You can really learn a lot about a quartier from a park bench. Peering over the pages of an open book, you can innocently people-watch for hours, taking in everyone from the endimanché elderly couple sitting one bench over, quietly bickering, to the bare-chested, middle-aged man standing up and yelling on his cellphone to a flustered mother trying to remember how to play with her children again now that the nounou is on vacation. Unfortunately, as you are in a public, neighborhood park, you can't expect to hide behind your book indefinitely. At some point, someone will manage to squeeze herself and her summery spirits down next to you and begin some banal banter ("It's sure a hot day, isn't it?"). How can you break it to her that there's no fun in people-watching a good-natured Parisien?

Kristin Davis as Charlotte York Goldblatt. [Online image] 2004.

Would the Ritz by Any Other Name Smell as Sweet?

From the elegance of Audrey Hepburn to the sordidness of arms dealers, the Ritz in Paris has made quite a name for itself over the years. Since its opening in 1898, it is also one of the few Paris landmarks that has remained largely unvisited by Parisians and tourists alike--no doubt making it all the more enticing to those who can afford it. 

Of course, no matter what you're able or willing to pay (11 euros for a glass of juice or 300 times that much for a modest suite), the Ritz is more than happy to offer you a taste of its name--not that that makes it any less intimidating to push your way though its turning doors past chic veiled women laden with even chic-er carrier bags. 

But walking out into the city again with echoes of the French staff addressing you in hushed, polite--dare I say helpful?--tones, it's hard not to feel like that that was one taste of Paris that was deliciously worth it.

Peter O'Toole and Audrey Hepburn as Simon Dermott and Nicole Bonnet. [Online image] 1966.

Getting Around Paris

Whether you're on foot, driving, Vélib-ing it, or swimming about, maneuvering around Paris takes some pretty fast decision-making and quite a lot of guts (or a very snug blindfold).
Crossing the street is not a simple matter of waiting for the petit bonhomme to turn green and then looking both ways. As a pedestrian, you are in an undeclared battle against all the cars and motos and bikes zooming your way. Some piétons may stoop to using their poussettes to stop traffic, but the pro doesn't need to resort to such methods. A glare at a nervy driver followed by a stern tap on the flank of his vehicle should be enough to cool most sets of wheels. And if all else fails, you can always yell, "Connard!" at the exhaust pipe as it races away. Just remember that this is a solo sport: don't expect any encouragement from bystanders sipping espresso at sidewalk cafés or a helping hand from the fellow competitors at your side. Trip and fall on the sidewalk in your brand new Tropéziennes soldées, and no one will bother turning around. You're just going to have to pick yourself up and keep on going. Or try life in Paris' fast lane. But after a tour ou deux around the Place de l'Etoile, you might find yourself begging for life as a lowly piéton again.

La Meute by Robert Doisneau. [Online Image] 1969.

"Les Grandes Vacances"

When General De Gaulle quibbled about governing a country with so many types of cheese, he obviously hadn't been on vacation in a while. If he had, he would have seen how manageable the French actually are.
As soon as les grandes vacances approach, les Gaulois begin pairing off in an orderly fashion before packing themselves off for a quinzaine or two at one of the Hexagone's designated vacation spots. Originality isn't a criterion. It's all a matter of leaving one's primary residence for a period of two to four weeks: the partir part of the partir en vacances equation is just as important as the vacances half.
Of course, the French don't all spend their vacances in the same style. The more populaire crowd camps out in tents, while across the hedge, bourgeois vacanciers play home improvement in their own résidences secondaires.
But whether they're sporting BCBG white and navy stripes and bateaux or dreadlocks and bare feet, they're all in one place, enjoying the same sun and sand--though some might choose to eat American cheese before admitting it.

Audrey Hepburn and Albert Finney as Joanna and Mark Wallace. [Online image] 1964.

"La Fête Nat"

It's a national holiday. It's in July. The date starts with "four." How different can it be?
Well, assez different.
For starters, there are NO decorations anywhere. No blue, white, and red napkins or streamers in the supermarket, no flags waving outside of people's homes or glued onto t-shirts. No tricolor desserts or face paints for sale. Unless you're in an official military parade, it's really not your place to show any team spirit (expect for lighting fire crackers).
Luckily being a willing spectator isn't that hard of a role to play, especially in Paris.
This year, crowds will gather early in the Champs de Mars. Not to eat hot dogs or watch cheesy reenactments of the storming of the Bastille--or even to sing patriotic ditties. They'll be there for Johnny. But once the night is filled with booms and echoing "oohs," you might well tell yourself, "It's not that different." Who would have thought that after dark, even Parisians can act impressed?

Sophia Loren and Cary Grant as Tom Winters and Cinzia Zaccardi. [Online image] 1958.